Saturday, May 9, 2026
swimmingly attired / a dazzling disguise at the beach
•••
News item in the San Francisco Examiner, October 8, 1917—
"Camouflage" was the subject of the Rev. Robert N. Powers in the Parkside Presbyterian Church Sunday evening. He said, in part:
War has lost its glory and chivalry and has gone back to the tactics of Bushmen and Indians. The artists of Europe have been called away from the great masters and the realms of ideal beauty to paint in disguising colors, ships, flying-machines, roads, horses and cannon.
There is a moral camouflage also. Business is streaked with it; politics is painted thick with it and society is too often camouflage itself. All our tricks of excusing and deceiving, of posing and pretending are a species of camouflage that in the long run deceives no one but ourselves.
Saturday, January 3, 2026
alas, Grace Ripley's camouflaged gown has arrived
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| Ruth St. Denis in costume (NYPL) |
The "Camouflage Gown," last word in elusiveness, has arrived. It Is women's contribution to the war economics of today. and the first example of "Hooverized dress."
No matter what the fashions may be in the future, the "Camouflage Gown" will never be conspicuous by reason of being "out of style." No matter what women wear, no matter what the modes of the future will bring, the "Camouflage gown" will always be en rapport.
For the "Camouflage gown," according to its inventor, will never go out of style! Fashions may come and fashions may go, but the owner of this latest invention in feminine accoutrement will not have to pay the bill. She'll just don the "camouflage"—and laugh at the madly changing modes!
The "Camouflage gown" is not invisible, like a camouflaged cannon or lamp-post or army mule. It is just invisible as to details, color and beside other gowns. In other words, everything about it is inconspicuous—and it never can be singled out as being different from the rest, though it is.
Miss Grace Ripley [later on the faculty at the Rhode Island School of Design] inventor of, the new gown, is a visitor here after having been for some time past in Los Angeles designing tor Ruth St. Denis. Her home is in Boston, whee she is famous as a designer of wonderful costumes. She is at present at the St. Francis in San Francisco on a visit, and has promised several of the new gowns to local society women.
"A gown can be so perfectly proportioned, following ancient lines," she declares, "by modernizing the old Greek costumes, and so perfectly harmonized in color, that it can never grow out of style. I have been experimenting, and have gowns that have been in fashion for years.
"In this day of conservation I have decided to offer this system of gown design as my contribution to the war program. It women dress less—that is, more cheaply—they can save material and money—and my system will do it without losing them any of their beauty."
RELATED LINKS
Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work? / Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and Camouflage / Embedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage / Optical science meets visual art / Disruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness / Under the big top at Sims' circus
Sunday, December 14, 2025
the camouflage craze / a book on camou mania now
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| Camou Mania |
RELATED LINKS
Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work? / Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and Camouflage / Embedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage / Optical science meets visual art / Disruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness / Under the big top at Sims' circus
Monday, November 24, 2025
will shoe makers soon decree that shoes be dissimilar
•••
Anon, SHOES DIFFER IN COLOR from The Davenport Democrat and Leader (Davenport IA) on March 1, 1925, p. 3—
Futurism, cubism or some other art complex has descended upon French custom boot makers, who insist that they set the styles in women's shoes for the world. These boot makers all are of one mind in turning out symmetrical footwear. The first models of this year styles were shown, a few weeks ago. They seemed freakish, but the boot makers have carried their original ideas further until now one side of a shoe Is quite different, not only in design, but in color, from the other side. Humorists are speculating whether the makers will not soon decree that right and left shoes be entirely dissimilar.
RELATED LINKS
Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work? / Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and Camouflage / Embedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage / Optical science meets visual art / Disruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness / Under the big top at Sims' circus
Wednesday, July 16, 2025
hollywood leg enhancer is biting the legs that feed him
Hazel Canning, EXPERTS ON FEMININE LEGS PUT CHARACTER ABOVE BEAUTY in Boston Sunday Post, April 29, 1945, p. 5—
Willy of Hollywood [dba Willy's of Hollywood] launched the topic of legs.
Willy is a stocking maker and leg camouflage expert in the movie city.
In fact, it is said that Willy can make stockings to give insoucient slenderness to the stumpy legs: a saucy challenge to the leg rather blocky and unshaped; whimsy, appeal and charm to the toughest, the stodgiest, the stiffest of feminine appurtenance which connects a shapely or otherwise ankle to the knee.
Recently Willy studied Miss Greer Garson as she was photographed in her kilt costume for the dance in Random Harvest.
These words he spoke more as a connoisseur than a critic, but nevertheless, the man whose speciality is reshaping feminine legs was not exactly pleased with Greer Garson’s. His comment sped across the ocean and into the London Mail. Garson read it, then she spoke.
“I,” said she, “have no need of a leg camouflager. My legs are my own; the ones with which I dance in Random Harvest. My paying customers have never complained about my legs. Now if this Willy is really a leg camouflager, I think he is rash. By advertising his trade, is he not, rather, biting the legs that feed him?”…
RELATED LINKS
Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work? / Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and Camouflage / Embedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage / Optical science meets visual art / Disruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness / Under the big top at Sims' circus
Saturday, July 12, 2025
I can transform anyone into whatever they want to be
Above Cartoon by W.K. Haselden in The Daily Mirror, January 14, 1918.
•••
EDITH HEAD (Hollywood costume designer), as interviewed in The Daily Mirror, November 2, 1970—
Well, I can go back to Mae West or right forward to Paul Newman. I was the first one to put clothes on Mae.
I remember she said to me: “Fit it tight, honey, I want them all to know I’m a girl from every angle.” But it didn’t work with Anita Eckberg.
There was so much of her that kept falling out.
I’m a camouflager. I can transform anyone into anything they want to be.…
•••
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| camouflage research site map |
RELATED LINKS
Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work? / Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and Camouflage / Embedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage / Optical science meets visual art / Disruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness / Under the big top at Sims' circus
Monday, June 23, 2025
circumvent the heat by disguising oneself as a julep
•••
O. Harvey, KNOW WHAT CAMO[U]FLAGE IS? WELL, THEN, HERE’S THE ANSWER, in The Telegram’s Daily Magazine, Salt Lake Telegram, September 8, 1917, p. 5—
I have decided to write a piece for the paper about a word that is not in the dictionary.
I get so reckless sometimes I don't care what I do.
Therefore I shall write a piece.
Old Man Webster knew a lot, but he didn't reckon on the war. You can read his well known books till you sprain an eye, but you won't see the word "Camouflage."
I don't know why, but it is so.
Camouflage is a bilking Industry with the libretto and music written by the French. The theory is to swindle the Germans' eyes. The Frenchmen cover themselves with a lot of leaves. They get the idea from Adam and Eve—but they don't pay any royalty on it.
After he is camouflaged up in a set of form fitting leaves, the Frenchman ankles off for a short vegetarian stroll toward the Kaiser's trenches. Some husky Boche tosses his optic toward him, but figures him out for a rhododendron bush rehearsing for a tableau vivant. First thing he knows, the rhododendron bush goes Democratic and poor old Hans is listed among the slightly killed, totally wounded or partially missing.
The idea of camouflage is to gyp the enemy. Give him one five for two tens. You heard about the cowboy who called on his best girl and found her bivouacking in another cowboy's lap. He pulled out his .45 caliber revolver to shoot the beauty spot off her false, deceiving chin, when she looks at him like page 256 in any of Ouida's novels.
"Do you believe your dearie, or do you believe your eyes?" she piped.
The poor fish believed his dearie, and they got married and lived snappily ever after. She had that fool cowboy all camouflaged up, with her metropolitan tongue and city ways.
Still, camouflage is no novelty among the unfair sex. A flapper will high heel along the macadamized turf, all ambushed up in a swarm of Dior Kiss. She will have a gang of summer furs lurking on her shoulders and a mob of paint, powder and other beauty utensils loitering on her face. She will have a complexion fairer than a supreme court decision. But when she gets home and starts to camouflage she puts on ten years for everything she takes off. She has one of those removable complexions. By the time that she has moulted her blonde hair, shed her automatic teeth and discarded her mechanical eye, she is older than hieroglyphics, and gaining every lap.
She has one of those folding complexions that you can carry in your handbag. The French have no monopoly on that camouflage institution.
Under the modern regime of beauty camouflage, everything about a woman's complexion Is detachable except her ears.
There are different branches of study In the camouflage curriculum. In Washington the senators have oratorical camouflage down to a science. Their specialty is painting word pictures, using their chin as a brush. There isn't a battle that the senate can't win with a few maxillary calisthenics. Rhetorical camouflage is great stuff, but you can't bridge the ocean with a pontoon of words. Any union senator with his vocal camouflagers on can build a fleet in three paragraphs or raise an army with a few chin excursions. Aesop's jackass had the camouflage Idea when he attended the zoo bal masque wearing the lion's coat and vest, but a few chirps of his fool mule tongue gummed his camouflage.
The gent who disguises himself behind a camouflage of women's skirts in order to escape military service to smaller than the Republican vote In Alabama. A guy that little can ambush himself behind a canceled postage stamp. The slackers are utilizing a camouflage of women's skirts, dependent relatives, conscientious objections, flat feet, weak heart and weaker knees. Which Is a camouflage that falls to camouflage by quite a few flages. And a culprit who tries to hide behind a woman's petticoats would have to pass his career in a bureau drawer. That's where the ladies are wearing their pettyskirts. We read the Delineator.
The paramount idea of camouflage is to create an aura of low visibility which will enable you to ramble around in safety. The chameleon has the right idea, and one that might be elaborated. For instance, a bill collector would never find you if you were camouflaged as a waste basket. All the props you need for this ambush is a loose wicker basket and a hat made of old newspapers, vacant letters and unraveled souvenir postcards. You can circumvent the heat by camouflaging yourself as a mint julep. With enough practice you can become a perfect julep. Even your wife will be unable to detect the difference on your breath.
Peace hath her camouflages as well as war. With a lIttle cranial dexterity and a few cerebral gymnastics, camouflaging can be utilized to alleviate the inconveniences of civilization.
There will be a camouflage for every ill.
Of course, in the case of a poor henpecked husband, we can paint no disguise with a brush.
The only camouflage will is distance. And you will have to paint that with your heels.
RELATED LINKS
Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work? / Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and Camouflage / Embedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage / Optical science meets visual art / Disruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness / Under the big top at Sims' circus

Sale-priced books on camouflage / free shipping
Sunday, June 22, 2025
women are expert camoufleurs / it is their middle name
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| Cartoon, Fay King 1918 |
by Fay King, San Francisco Examiner, May 20, 1918
In my humble opinion, if there is one branch of the service that we women oughta excell in it’s CAMOUFLAGE.
If I had my way I’d give every woman a job in the camouflage department, and is she’s over forty she’s a master of the art.
Figure it out for yourself. A perfect forty-eight has been looking like a perfect thirty-six for centuries.
Give any woman three days’ notice and a good dressmaker and she can be hippy or hippless, according to fashion’s decree. She can look like Mrs. Vernon Castle or Maxine Elliott or whoever happens to be the most copied at the time, even if she has a face as hilly as San Francisco.
The wife of a small salaried man has long camouflaged as the wife of a steel magnate.
She can make a table full of dishes look like a square meal. Can you imagine what a cinch she’d have making a battleship look like a bucket?
Camouflage is woman’s middle name—why not make it her “bit”?
SURELY her experience at keeping Willie looking like a half-fare is proof enough of her success.
A lip stick and a powder puff have won many a husband for a clever woman. She could certainly win a war with a barrel of paint and a ton of powder.
She’s been painting red crawfish so long on platters and buttercups on butter dishes, she’d not have the slightest difficulty in designing storm clouds on ship masts, waves on battle-boats and daisies on the nose of a cannon.
RELATED LINKS
Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work? / Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and Camouflage / Embedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage / Optical science meets visual art / Disruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness / Under the big top at Sims' circus
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| Sale-priced books on camouflage / free shipping |
Saturday, April 5, 2025
New York City bootblack camouflages woman's legs
Above This news photograph, with the headline LOOK, GIRLS’ COOLER’N SILK HOSE, appeared in the Arizona Republican (August 3, 1919) with the following caption—
New York—No more will the busy bodies worry over the working girl’s silk hose. Not if said working girl adopts this latest New York fad. It’s the “Keep Cool Stockings, Stenciled While You aWait.” Miss Alice Monroe of Broadway is giving the bootblack in the picture the job of decorating her bare legs. Note the paper stencil and brush with which the “camouflage” is applied.
RELATED LINKS
Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work? / Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and Camouflage / Embedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage / Optical science meets visual art / Disruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness / Under the big top at Sims' circus
Thursday, October 26, 2023
as styles evolve, no need to camouflage chunky feet
Above This is strange. It’s a news article from the Boston Sunday Globe, dated July 2, 1939, page 2 (only weeks before the outbreak in Europe of World War II). It’s a discussion of women’s shoe styles in relation to foot size. It claims, in essence, that women are no longer insistent on having small-sized, “dainty” feet. In buying shoes, they are choosing comfort over pain. But then, by means of a curious seque, the author credits this change of attitude to the use of ship camouflage in WWI. Here is the reasoning—
Women have never had an active desire to have dainty feet. Twenty years ago, however, they felt that large feet made them conspicuous; in those days the cartoonists frequently used to jeer at them, call them gunboats and similar names. So dainty feet became the style. Now shoe stores keep sizes 10 and 11 on hand for women who are not ashamed to ask for them.
Shoe manufacturers have contributed more than their bit to this change in point of view. The styles of the last decade have provided for what used to be called gunboats much the same sort of camouflage that the navy paints on battleships in wartime. Color combinations make the large shoe less conspicuous. The sandal type of shoe, with the toe and heel cut out, aimed to make the foot look smaller.
Tuesday, June 6, 2023
1928 tassle camouflage women's beach wear in france
CAMOUFLAGE FOR SHAPELESS LEGS in The Boston Advertiser, September 9, 1928—
Anon (signature unreadable)
A new Deauville* fashion is for women to wear tassels eight inches long hanging from the kneecap. Maiden ladies must wear pink tassels, while married women wear blue.
* a seaside resort in Normandy in northwestern France
Monday, December 5, 2022
Camouflage Cartoons Archive online at ScholarWorks
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| Online Camouflage Cartoons Archive |
Thursday, November 10, 2022
she was not only good in math, science & philosophy
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| Frida Kahlo |
“Everyone said I had an eye for color,” she told me, very impressed with herself. “Only that stupid Lorenzo, you know what he said? He said I should become a dress designer!” Obviously, she thought dress designing was beneath her, although as an adult she actually wore a lot of her own creations. I can understand how someone might have thought that Frida would become a dress designer. She was so particular about her clothes—the jewelry, the colors, the ribbons in her hair. Everything had to match. Clever Frida. I have to admit it; she was good not only in math and science and philosophy, but she knew how to doll herself up in order to camouflage her defects. I mean, Frida wasn’t really pretty—I told you that before—but she was very particular about her appearance. She took hours to get dressed and do her hair. It was important to her to divert people’s eyes from that ugly, deformed leg. More>>>
Thursday, November 3, 2022
WWII charming camouflage fashions for mothers to be
The [World War II British] camouflage soldiers were, on the whole, the most unwarlike collection of men imaginable—painters, sculptors, designers, and architects. They had, in fact, been drawn from the very section of the community that, in warfare, the regular soldier regarded as a bit of a joke.…
An example of the regular army’s attitude in dealing with the camouflage men…was described by Geoffrey Barkas in an article written in 1952 for the Royal Army Ordnance Corps Gazette. Barkas, as chief camouflage officer, Middle East Forces, had been informed that an expeditionary force was being assembled under the code name Lustre Force and that he was to be responsible for its camouflage equipment. He asked where Lustre Force was going, but for reasons of security such information could on no account be divulged. Could he have some clue on suitable tones and colors—was it a yellow, brown, or green country, lumpy or flat, with trees or none? Certainly not. That would be telling him where Lustre Force was going. What was the size and composition of the force, and how long did he have to assemble the material? But this was expecting the planners to reveal the date of embarkation! Barkas did, eventually, make an accurate guess (the destination was Greece) and by direct approach to the director of Ordnance Services he got the support he needed. Although only a few weeks remained for assembling the camouflage supplies, Lustre Force was equipped.
Sunday, October 24, 2021
latest terpsichorean fads in WWI wartime dancing
“CAMOUFLAGE WALTZ” AND “AIRPLANE SPIN” LATEST TERPSICHOREAN STEPS in The Des Moines Register (Des Moines IA), June 11, 1918—
Chicago, June 10—The “trench trot,” the “camouflage waltz” and the “cantonment canter” have displaced the gavotte, the minuet and the old fashioned waltz, it was declared today at the convention of the International Dancing Masters’ Association. Other new dances displayed were the “war stamp" and the “airplane spin.” Plans were announced for a dancing masters’ union which will soon embark for France to instruct American soldiers regarding the newest steps.
Thursday, February 11, 2021
not hardly the last of the (dreadful) camouflage jokes
Above THE LAST (?) OF THE CAMOUFLAGE JOKES, cartoon (artist's signature unclear) from London Opinion reprinted in The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, June 3, 1919, with the following dialogue—
“Why this dazzle get-up?”
“Fact is, dear boy, when my beastly creditors do see me, I’m hoping they won’t have the least idea in which direction I’m going.”
•••
Untitled, in The Times Tribune (Scranton PA), June 20, 1918—
In gauging the speed of their prospective prey submersibles must base their reckoning on the sweep of a vessel’s lines from stern to stern. Recent tests off Sandy Hook [NJ, off New York Harbor] demonstrated that the interruption of these lines created by the zebra-like stripes of the camouflage artists causes errors up to 40 per cent, as to the knots per hour being negotiated by a bedaubed ship…Under normal conditions, observers are able to come within 2 per cent of a vessel’s speed, showing what protection the cubistic color scheme affords against the hostile torpedo.
NOTE We found out recently that there was a French artist named Georges Taboureau (1879-1960), primarily known for his travel posters, who designed ship camouflage for the French during World War I. He frequently signed his work as Sandy Hook.
Friday, January 29, 2021
measles, camouflage and asymmetrical shoes in 1918
SHOES DIFFER IN COLOR in the Davenport Democrat and Leader (Davenport IA), March 1, 1925, p. 3—
Futurism, cubism or some other art complex has descended upon French custom bootmakers, who insist that they set the styles in women’s shoes for the world. These bootmakers all are of one mind in turning out symmetrical footwear. The first models of this year styles were shown a few weeks ago. They seemed freakish, but the bootmakers have carried their original ideas further until now one side of a shoe is quite different, not only in design, but in color, from the other side. Humorists are speculating whether the makers will not soon decree that right and left shoes be entirely dissimilar.
Tuesday, February 11, 2020
Camouflage costume results in a periscope neck
Despite this successful "camouflage costume," we rather suspect this is a girl and not a steamer: Miss Lurline de Marals, artist, wore it at a recent Mardi Gras festival in Oakland CA. Every man in the place had a periscope neck.
See also scandalous bathing attire.
Thursday, September 12, 2019
Camoufleuse | The Dazzling of Women at War
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| Women's Reserve Camouflage Corps painting the USS Recruit (1918) |
Modernism and camouflage would seem to be unlikely allies. One advances and the other retreats. One rebels and resists; the other lurks undercover. But during World War I, a group of renegade camoufleurs forged an uneasy truce between modernism's flash and camouflage's muted secrets. Their sources were extraordinary and eclectic. Drawing inspiration from animal behavior, avant-garde design, and women's fashion, the camoufleur—and, as I argue, the camoufleuse—worked to reimagine visibility and warfare in modern terms.…More>>>
•••
It may be also be of interest that there is now a Wikipedia article on the role of women in WWI camouflage, called "Women's Reserve Camouflage Corps." Also, the full text of our related essay on Chicanery and Conspicuousness: Social Repercussions of World War I Ship Camouflage can also be accessed online.






















