Showing posts with label cosmetics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cosmetics. Show all posts

Saturday, July 12, 2025

I can transform anyone into whatever they want to be

Above Cartoon by W.K. Haselden in The Daily Mirror, January 14, 1918.

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EDITH HEAD (Hollywood costume designer), as interviewed in The Daily Mirror, November 2, 1970—

Well, I can go back to Mae West or right forward to Paul Newman. I was the first one to put clothes on Mae.

I remember she said to me: “Fit it tight, honey, I want them all to know I’m a girl from every angle.” But it didn’t work with Anita Eckberg.

There was so much of her that kept falling out.

I’m a camouflager. I can transform anyone into anything they want to be.…


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camouflage research site map

RELATED LINKS    

Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work?Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and CamouflageEmbedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage /  Optical science meets visual artDisruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness /  Under the big top at Sims' circus

Monday, June 30, 2025

an expert at making black eyes disappear with paint

Movie poster (1937)
SIGN PAINTER AND CAMOUFLAGER OF BLACK EYES DIES in Graham Daily Reporter (Graham TX), January 24, 1936—

NEW HAVEN—Julius A. Rida, dean of New Haven sign painters and an expert at making “black eyes” disappear with deft touches of a paint brush, died last night.

Rida established a sign shop here when he was 19 years old. His place became a favorite with young bloods of bygone days with more spirit than pugilistic skill.

For $5 Rida would delicately color damaged eye areas and restore them to the natural appearance. The job took less than twenty minutes.

RELATED LINKS    

Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work?Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and CamouflageEmbedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage /  Optical science meets visual artDisruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness /  Under the big top at Sims' circus

Monday, June 23, 2025

circumvent the heat by disguising oneself as a julep

Above Roy R. Behrens, from a series of digital montages, produced during the COVID pandemic. Copyright © the artist. Online here.

•••

O. Harvey, KNOW WHAT CAMO[U]FLAGE IS? WELL, THEN, HERE’S THE ANSWER, in The Telegram’s Daily Magazine, Salt Lake Telegram, September 8, 1917, p. 5—

I have decided to write a piece for the paper about a word that is not in the dictionary.

I get so reckless sometimes I don't care what I do.

Therefore I shall write a piece.

Old Man Webster knew a lot, but he didn't reckon on the war. You can read his well known books till you sprain an eye, but you won't see the word "Camouflage."

I don't know why, but it is so.

Camouflage is a bilking Industry with the libretto and music written by the French. The theory is to swindle the Germans' eyes. The Frenchmen cover themselves with a lot of leaves. They get the idea from Adam and Eve—but they don't pay any royalty on it.

After he is camouflaged up in a set of form fitting leaves, the Frenchman ankles off for a short vegetarian stroll toward the Kaiser's trenches. Some husky Boche tosses his optic toward him, but figures him out for a rhododendron bush rehearsing for a tableau vivant. First thing he knows, the rhododendron bush goes Democratic and poor old Hans is listed among the slightly killed, totally wounded or partially missing.

The idea of camouflage is to gyp the enemy. Give him one five for two tens. You heard about the cowboy who called on his best girl and found her bivouacking in another cowboy's lap. He pulled out his .45 caliber revolver to shoot the beauty spot off her false, deceiving chin, when she looks at him like page 256 in any of Ouida's novels.

"Do you believe your dearie, or do you believe your eyes?" she piped.

The poor fish believed his dearie, and they got married and lived snappily ever after. She had that fool cowboy all camouflaged up, with her metropolitan tongue and city ways.

Still, camouflage is no novelty among the unfair sex. A flapper will high heel along the macadamized turf, all ambushed up in a swarm of Dior Kiss. She will have a gang of summer furs lurking on her shoulders and a mob of paint, powder and other beauty utensils loitering on her face. She will have a complexion fairer than a supreme court decision. But when she gets home and starts to camouflage she puts on ten years for everything she takes off. She has one of those removable complexions. By the time that she has moulted her blonde hair, shed her automatic teeth and discarded her mechanical eye, she is older than hieroglyphics, and gaining every lap.

She has one of those folding complexions that you can carry in your handbag. The French have no monopoly on that camouflage institution.

Under the modern regime of beauty camouflage, everything about a woman's complexion Is detachable except her ears.

There are different branches of study In the camouflage curriculum. In Washington the senators have oratorical camouflage down to a science. Their specialty is painting word pictures, using their chin as a brush. There isn't a battle that the senate can't win with a few maxillary calisthenics. Rhetorical camouflage is great stuff, but you can't bridge the ocean with a pontoon of words. Any union senator with his vocal camouflagers on can build a fleet in three paragraphs or raise an army with a few chin excursions. Aesop's jackass had the camouflage Idea when he attended the zoo bal masque wearing the lion's coat and vest, but a few chirps of his fool mule tongue gummed his camouflage.

The gent who disguises himself behind a camouflage of women's skirts in order to escape military service to smaller than the Republican vote In Alabama. A guy that little can ambush himself behind a canceled postage stamp. The slackers are utilizing a camouflage of women's skirts, dependent relatives, conscientious objections, flat feet, weak heart and weaker knees. Which Is a camouflage that falls to camouflage by quite a few flages. And a culprit who tries to hide behind a woman's petticoats would have to pass his career in a bureau drawer. That's where the ladies are wearing their pettyskirts. We read the Delineator.

The paramount idea of camouflage is to create an aura of low visibility which will enable you to ramble around in safety. The chameleon has the right idea, and one that might be elaborated. For instance, a bill collector would never find you if you were camouflaged as a waste basket. All the props you need for this ambush is a loose wicker basket and a hat made of old newspapers, vacant letters and unraveled souvenir postcards. You can circumvent the heat by camouflaging yourself as a mint julep. With enough practice you can become a perfect julep. Even your wife will be unable to detect the difference on your breath.

Peace hath her camouflages as well as war. With a lIttle cranial dexterity and a few cerebral gymnastics, camouflaging can be utilized to alleviate the inconveniences of civilization.

There will be a camouflage for every ill.

Of course, in the case of a poor henpecked husband, we can paint no disguise with a brush.

The only camouflage will is distance. And you will have to paint that with your heels. 

RELATED LINKS    

Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work?Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and CamouflageEmbedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage /  Optical science meets visual artDisruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness /  Under the big top at Sims' circus

Sale-priced books on camouflage / free shipping

 

 

Saturday, April 5, 2025

New York City bootblack camouflages woman's legs

Above This news photograph, with the headline LOOK, GIRLS’ COOLER’N SILK HOSE, appeared in the Arizona Republican (August 3, 1919) with the following caption—

New York—No more will the busy bodies worry over the working girl’s silk hose. Not if said working girl adopts this latest New York fad. It’s the “Keep Cool Stockings, Stenciled While You aWait.” Miss Alice Monroe of Broadway is giving the bootblack in the picture the job of decorating her bare legs. Note the paper stencil and brush with which the “camouflage” is applied.

RELATED LINKS    

Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work?Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and CamouflageEmbedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage /  Optical science meets visual artDisruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness /  Under the big top at Sims' circus

Friday, July 26, 2024

an excellent account of the word origin of camouflage

Philip Hale, music critic

There were at least two prominent people named Philip Hale, who were contemporaries and both from New England.

Philip Leslie Hale (1865-1931) was an American Impressionist artist, who was related to Nathan Hale and Harriet Beecher Stowe. His father was Edward Everett Hale. We mentioned him in our previous post, because one of his students was ship camoufleur Thomas Casilear Cole. Another was Henry Wadsworth Moore, also a ship camoufleur.

The second was a musician and prominent newspaper critic named Philip Hale (1854-1934). Beginning in 1903, he was affiliated with The Boston Herald, for which he wrote a column called As the World Wags. In one of his columns, which was published on January 24, 1918, he offered what is—undoubtedly—the most detailed and authoritative account of the origin of the French word camouflage, which had become widely adopted as an English term during World War I.

There is nothing else like it. Since it is long out of copyright and otherwise hard to locate, we are republishing the entire column, for the convenience of researchers, as follows—

A correspondent, whose letter was published last Monday, rejoices because "camouflage" has found its way into the English language. He prefers the word to "disguise."

"Camouflage," however, is loosely used, absurdly used by many, who are glad to Include in a sentence any word that seems to them new or "the thing,” although they are wholly ignorant of the true meaning.

In the definition of "camouflage" the standard French dictionaries are of little or no use. Littre gives "camouflet," the noun, meaning “a thick smoke that one blows maliciously into the nose of one with a lighted paper cone." To give a "camouflet" is to affront, mortify a person. "Camouflet" is also a mining term. This French word is an old one. It is defined in Cotgrave’s dictionary (1678) as "a snuft or cold pie, a smoakie paper held under the nose of a slug or sleeper." Now, a cold pie in old colloquial English meant an application of cold water to wake a sleeper. “To give cold pig" was another form, and it is still used. In dialect a "cold pie” is an accident to a train or carriage in a pit, a fall on the ice, a disappointment of any kind.

In more modern French-English dictionaries, a camouflet is a whift of smoke in the face; a stifler; an affront, rap over the knuckles, snub.

In Larousse, we find the noun”camouflement," slang for a disguise; the verb, "camoufler," slang, to disguise, or to paint oneself; and "camouflet," mortification. The word "camouflage" does not appear.

Let us look at the French slang dictionarles. Le Roux, edition of 1752: "Camouflet. A blow on the face." Scarron is quoted. Then: "It is also a trick played on a person asleep; here is the explanation. One takes a half sheet of paper, rolls it in the form of a cone, and lights one end, puts the lighted end in the mouth, and blows smoke through the other end into the nose of a sleeper. This makes him wake up at once. In this manner one breaks a person of the habit of sleeping at any moment. The word is also figuratively employed, and in this case means affront, mortification."

Delvau's "Dictionnaire de la Langue Verte," 1889. We find “Camouflement: disguise because the 'camoufle' of instruction and education deceives one.” "Camoufler, to instruct oneself, to serve oneself with the camoufle of intellectual and moral light." It should be remarked that in thieves' slang “camoufle” means candle. Delvau also gives “camouflerise," reflective verb, to disguise oneself. "Camouflage" is not given.

"Camouflement," disguise, is in Larchey's "Excentricites du Langage" (1865) and in Vidocqu's "Les Voleura" (1837).

Let Us look at more modern dictionaries. "Camouflage" is not in Marchand's "Modern Parisian Slang: Argot des Tranchees,” but "camouflet," a rebuke, is listed, also "se camoufler,” to make up one's face.

"Camouflage"' is not in Jean La Rue’s "Dictionnaire d'Argot."

We find "Camouflage" in Aristide Bruant's "L.'Argot au XXe Siecle," vol. I. Francals-Argot, as an equivalent of "Deguisement." The second volume, Argot-Francais, has not been published. Bruant is dead.

"Camouflage" with its present meaning was a French slang term in 1901 and probably for some years before.

We find "Camouflage" in the "Dictionnaire des Termes Militaires et de l'Argot Poilu," published in Paris (1916). “Camoufle. A lamp. Painting the face." "Camoufler. To make a ‘Camoufle,’ to paint." "Camouflage. The action of painting." “Camoufleur. An artist that transforms, by modifying the disposition, the general aspects, immovable things, cannon, anything exposed to the aim of the enemy.

Then there is the huge “Dictionnaire de la Langue Verte." by Hector France, a volume of nearly 600 pages, quarto, with three columns to the page. "Camouflage. The art of making up." There Is this quotation from Guy Tomel's “Le Bas du Pave Parisien": "The police show themselves very reserved on the subject of ‘camouflage,' because each one of them has his own methods which he does not wish to divulge; also because they make their transformations instinctively and would have all the trouble in the world to join theory with practice.” France also defines a "camoufle" (acute accent on the "e") as “a man wearing a false beard, or otherwise disguised." A "camoufleur" is a disguised policeman. "Camoufler la bibine" is to sell adulterated drinks.


It thus appears that the word “camouflage" did not come into the French language during the present war, and is not purely military slang. It is certainly as old as 1901; it was used in connection with policemen and with actors. Aristide Bruant defined it in 1901. Hector France began the publication of his dictionary, in bi-monthly parts, in 1898. "Camoufage" is on the 35th page.

In defining "se camoufler," the definition "se maquiller" is usually given. “Se maquiller" means to paint one's face, to put on rouge, to ruddle, to make up.

In his learned "Etudes de Philologie comparee sur l’Argot" (1856), Francisque-Michel, discussing the old word “camouflet,” says that as the smoke was usually blown into the face of sleeping lackeys, the word soon came to mean a flagrant affront, a great mortification. Pray, in what sense was the word used by the anonymous author of "L'Histoire de Camouflet, souverain potentat de l'empire d' Equivopolis” (1751)?

RELATED LINKS    

Dazzle Camouflage: What is it and how did it work?Nature, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Women's Rights, and CamouflageEmbedded Figures, Art, and Camouflage / Art, Gestalt, and Camouflage /  Optical science meets visual artDisruption versus dazzle / Chicanery and conspicuousness /  Under the big top at Sims' circus

SALE book bundle / free shipping

 

Thursday, December 8, 2022

Peanut Prieto selects a Chandler Coupe closed car

Humorist Kayem Grier (1920)
Above We recently found a photograph of a popular newspaper columnist (and erstwhile stage comedian) who was well-known shortly after World War I, at a time when it was still permissible to lampoon emigrant accents. His name was Kenneth M. Grier, but his pen name was Kayem Grier. He wrote a syndicated column, featured in various national newspapers, titled Peanut Prieto, in which (like Chico Marx) he mimicked the errors and accent of an Italian emigrant. Published below is the text of one of his columns, in which he talks about wartime camouflage in relation to (as might be expected) the use of cosmetics by women.

According to the news story accompanying the photograph, the Salt Lake City native was “not only a humorous writer. He is one of the most experienced motorists in the state…[Earlier] he became widely known to thousands of followers of the auto racing game throughout the middle west. In 1914, he toured the middle west with a racing car, driving half-mile tracks and thrilling thousands of visitors at state and county fairs in a series of sensational races. In the process, he was the owner of twenty-nine different kinds of cars. The article announces that he had selected a Chandler coupe “as his ultimate choice of an automobile.” The photograph was published in the Deseret News (Salt Lake City UT), May 29, 1920, p. iv., with the headline Peanut Pietro Selects Chandler Closed Car.

•••

Kayem Grier [Kenneth M. Grier], PEANUT PIETRO, in Irvingville Gazette, November 19, 1920—

Other day I toll thy boss bouta somating wot I tink. And he say to me you no better speaka dat way out loud eef you lika to stay een deesa place longa time. He say, "Eet you roasta ladies, Pietro, ees alla same keeka dirt on your own grave."

But wot he tella me ees no scare ver mooch. Eef I lika somating I like plenta mooch and eef I no lika I gotta deesgust. So I speaka wot I tink eef ees breaka my neck, I no care. When da war broka out somebody eenvent camouflage for maka every ting looka wot aint. Weeth da camouflage one ship ees looka lika two ship and two ship looka lika no ship. Weeth plenta paint everyting ees made for looka deefrence—jusa for foola other guy.

And now when da war ees queet some da women keepa right on do sama ting. I see one woman other day weeth so moocha paint on could foola U-boat. Eef we use so' moocha black powder on da Germans as women use white powder on da face mebbe we gotta heem licked long time ago.

Seema lika only ting some cheecken do now ees scrubba da nose white, paint da cheek peenk, maka red lips and putta google een da eye weeth black stick. Lika data way da face stick out lika sore thumb. And when ees come on da street she maka more noise as da dire engine.

One girl tella me she jusa putta nough on for stoppa da shine. She gotta so mooch on I feegure mebbe she tink her face ees headlight, dunno. Longa time ago I reada some place dat da pen ees stronga like da sword, or somating. For way some da women looka now I feegare da powder puff ees greater as da wash rog. But dunno—

Wot you tink?

Thursday, November 10, 2022

she was not only good in math, science & philosophy

Frida Kahlo
Barbara Mujica, Frida: A Novel. Woodstock: Overlook Press, 2001, pp. 102-103—

“Everyone said I had an eye for color,” she told me, very impressed with herself. “Only that stupid Lorenzo, you know what he said? He said I should become a dress designer!” Obviously, she thought dress designing was beneath her, although as an adult she actually wore a lot of her own creations. I can understand how someone might have thought that Frida would become a dress designer. She was so particular about her clothes—the jewelry, the colors, the ribbons in her hair. Everything had to match. Clever Frida. I have to admit it; she was good not only in math and science and philosophy, but she knew how to doll herself up in order to camouflage her defects. I mean, Frida wasn’t really pretty—I told you that before—but she was very particular about her appearance. She took hours to get dressed and do her hair. It was important to her to divert people’s eyes from that ugly, deformed leg. More>>>

Friday, February 14, 2020

Set Design: Camouflage is as old as show business

Above Here are the sheep. But what has become of the shepherd? Can you find him?

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Daniel Dillon, STAGE SETTERS IN US FORCE in World War History (New York), August 11, 1917—

Indicative of the thoroughness and extent of preparation the American troops are now undergoing in occupying the trenches, is the fact that a large number of “stage setters” and “scenic painters,” architects, constructive engineers, etc., are now on the French and British fronts, learning the art of camouflage, that is, screening the artillery and concealing the observation points.…

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ART OF CAMOUFLAGE OLD AS SHOW BUSINESS in Cincinnati Commercial Tribune (Cincinnati OH), June 16, 1918, p. 17—

The art of camouflage, which has recently received widespread publicity because of its application to military operations in Europe, is really as old as show business, according to Blanche Evans, one of the pretty girls on the summer vaudeville bill at Keith’s [a major theatre at the current location of Fountain Square on Walnut Street] this week.

According to Miss Evans, theatre folks deserve full credit for developing and nursing this art of deceiving the eye through the ages, and of perfecting it to such a degree that it has become one of the important factors in modern warfare.

“Why, the very spirit of the stage is that of camouflage,” declared Miss Evans recently. “This stage makes believe, makes things appear what they are not, and that is camouflage in spirit and reality. Stage scenic artists are expert camoufleurs. They take a bit of canvas and with brush and paint transform it into a parlor, woods, or palace with ease. A series of costumes can change a single actor into a king, a beggar, a policeman, or a man of society. What is that but camouflage?…

The real relation between stage camouflage and military camouflage is perhaps best emphasized by the fact that hundreds of former theatre scenic artists are now engaged on the European battlefronts in creating illusions to deceive the observations of the enemy. American scenic artists are beginning to serve their country in the same way and before long we will have contributed hundreds to the same cause. Military camouflage is saving the lives of hundreds of soldiers every day and the theatre should be given full military credit for its patient and untiring development of the art.”


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Melvin M. Riddle, CAMOUFLAGE! Concerning one of the Major Arts of Motion Pictures. Atlanta Constitution (Atlanta GA), October 24, 1920—

…camouflage is an art without a knowledge of which, one of the greatest industries of today—the motion picture industry—could hardly exist.

The art of camouflage is a vital factor—in fact, it might be said, almost a prime factor in the production of motion pictures…

It is the general impression, perhaps, that the war first developed the art of camouflage. This impression, however, is erroneous. For long before the war began, the art had been developed to a high degree by the industry of motion picture production, but as developed by the industry, it was an unidentified art because it was an art without a name. The truth of this assertion is proven by the fact that when America entered the war, men from the motion picture studios, who had gained a knowledge of the art of scenic deception, formed an important part of the ranks of special camouflage corps which were sent over there. This was because these men had already a practical knowledge of this great study and had only to adapt this knowledge to the particular requirements of defense in war.

The one great difference between camouflage as practiced in motion pictures and as practiced in war is that war camouflage, although deceiving to the human optics, is readily detected by the camera, while in motion pictures the camouflage is especially arranged and prepared to deceive the eye of the camera, although it sometimes also deceives the human eye, unless a very close-up view is obtained. Primarily, it is the camera lens upon which the deception is practiced, however, for the eye of the camera is ultimately the eyes of the motion picture audience.

Motion pictures, before the beginning of the war, did more and are doing more to develop the art of camouflage on a large scale than any other industry or even possibly could do. Camouflage is the very life of a motion picture—a vital necessity. Of course, the art has been employed from time immemorial in the theatrical profession—in the dressing of stage settings for legitimate productions, but camouflage, as used on a stage, is very limited in its scope, and is admittedly camouflage, and for this reason loses its very effectiveness. It is when camouflage is mistaken for the genuine and the delusion is unquestioned, that it really serves the purpose for which it is intended.…


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See also theatre designer